Spring is nearly here and I know so many people are eggcited to start hatching eggs in 2026. There’s something magical about hatching eggs at home. Watching that first tiny crack appear, hearing the faint tapping from inside — it never gets old, no matter how many times you do it. But alongside the excitement comes responsibility. Hatching is unpredictable, sometimes messy, and always a learning curve. It’s not about chasing perfect results, but about giving every egg the best possible chance while keeping welfare at the heart of what you do.
If this is your first go, don’t worry. I’ll take you through everything I’ve learned over the years — the good, the bad, and the slightly heartbreaking — so you can go in prepared. By the end, you’ll understand what’s realistic, what isn’t, and which bits of kit really do make life easier.
Broody Hen or Incubator?
Let’s start with your method. A reliable broody hen is nature’s best incubator — she’ll turn the eggs, keep the humidity right, and teach the chicks what to do once they’re out. But not every hen wants to sit, and not every household is ready for a broody’s mood swings, mess, or dedication (it’s a big strain on their body). If you’ve got a calm, healthy hen who insists on sitting tight, that’s wonderful — just make sure she’s eating and drinking each day, and keep her mite-free with a little Diatomaceous Earth DE Powder (Amazon #aff ) dusted around the nest (never directly on the eggs). But most people don't have a broody hen - so…..
For everyone else, an incubator is a brilliant alternative. Modern models make it possible to hatch at home, even in a small kitchen or spare room. The key is choosing one that keeps temperature and humidity stable. This is where spending a bit more, if you can, really pays off. The cheaper the incubator, the less likely it is to work… so if you have a decent budget, I'd recommend this one: Brinsea Mini II Advance Incubator (Amazon #aff) it's a reliable small model that I’ve used myself and would happily recommend for beginners who want something accurate and easy to clean. HOWEVER - I know not every has got that kind of cash, so WITHOUT A DOUBT - this is my go to CHEAP - uner £60 incuabtor…. the OBi 18 Incubator or OBi-12 Egg Incubator (Both on Amazon) are without a doubt the best of the less than £60 incubators. — just remember that cheaper incubators need a little more checking and patience - and you MUST buy a seperate thermometer if going for this option. They are about £5.
Whatever you choose, treat those glossy product listings with caution. Hatch rates aren’t guaranteed by the machine. Even in perfect conditions, expect about 70% from your own eggs, or nearer 50% if you’ve had them posted. Temperature changes during postage, rough handling, which can dislodge egg sacs, time of year, can all make a difference. It’s not your fault — it’s just nature.
Setting Up Your Incubator
Before you even plug it in, find a spot out of direct sunlight and away from draughts or radiators. Set it up at least 24 hours before your eggs go in, so you know it’s holding steady at 37.5°C. Don’t rely solely on the incubator’s display — they can be several degrees out - and whether you have something top of the range, or cheap as chips, I wouldn't dream of incubating without a digital thermometer and hygrometer with a probe (Amazon #aff ) pop the probe inside to double-check. It’s one of those small bits of kit that can make the difference between a good hatch and a frustrating one, or one that doesn't work at all. Set your humidity to between 40-55% (easier said than done with some incubators) and away you go…
Candling and Checking Progress
Once your incubator’s been running steadily you can pop your eggs in, fat end up if your incubator allows, or on the side is fine. I suggest that you mark them with the breed, and the date you put them in - it's easy to forget. You can use pencil, but we use a non toxic pen here,as we have to permanently mark them by law… you won't need to worry about that as a hobby hatcher though.. Check on themevery day,chcek they are stillplugged in and you are seeing reliable temperatures and humidity levels. The next big milestone is candling. This is when you gently shine a bright light through the shell to check for signs of life and development. It’s one of those moments that feels a bit like magic — you’re peeking into something very private and special - and sometimes it feels like a let down, as you can't see anything but a big blog…
I usually candle around days eight to eleven. Earlier than that and you’ll just be guessing; any later, and you risk wasting energy on infertile or dead eggs. A proper egg candler (Amazon) gives you the light intensity you need to see those delicate veins and the tiny moving embryo inside. You can use the torch on the back of your phone, but it is quite tricky to hold the phone, and the egg, and look inside.. Personally I like the ones from Titan, as they’re bright enough for darker shells but still easy to handle one-handed. Always handle your eggs gently and for the shortest time possible, (upto 5 mins is OK) keeping them warmish, but bare in mind a mummy hen will get off the eggs to eat, so you do have serval minutes to get them out. If you’re ever unsure, mark your uncertain eggs - maybe with a ? on the shell and check again a few days later.
If you find clear eggs (no development) or ones that have stopped partway, it’s best to remove them. They can go off quickly, and a bad egg can contaminate the rest. It’s not pleasant, but it’s part of the process. Every experienced hatcher has had that moment, and it doesn’t mean you’ve done anything wrong. Prepare children (and yourself) that for every 12 eggs you set, you are likely to have only 6 safely hatch as a beginner - there will be losses on the way.
Lockdown and Hatch Day
Three days before hatch day, you’ll hear the phrase “lockdown" - This simply means you stop turning the eggs and increase humidity to help the chicks pip and zip without drying out. For chickens and quail, aim for about 65% humidity; ducks need a little higher. My one NON NEGOTIATBLE item that you MUST get ready for lockdown is a non-slip drawer liner (Amazon) in the base of the incubator at this point. It gives the chicks something to grip onto as they hatch, helping prevent splayed legs. I have so many people contact me with an issue that is so easily avoided… incubator bases are far to slippy for hatching chicks, they are designed to be able to keep clean, so they are smooth, this is not what you want… so spend that £4 a buy a liner - if you don't, and your chicks have splayed leg, you know why.
Once lockdown begins, resist the urge to open the lid. I know it’s tempting — everyone wants to peek — but even a quick look can cause humidity to drop and membranes to shrink around the chick. If you’ve got children watching, explain this early so they understand it’s a waiting game now. Assuming you are doing chicken eggs this will be day 18, with hatching due day 21. These are only “ish” figures. Smaller birds tend to hatch day 20 - larger types can hatch as late as day 24
The first sign of hatching is usually a small star-shaped crack or “pip.” From that first pip, it can take anything from six to twenty-four hours before the chick fully emerges. Some will be quick, some won’t, and that’s perfectly normal. Don’t panic if one chick is ahead of the others; they all work at their own pace. As hard as it is, don’t try to help unless you’re absolutely sure a chick is in trouble and you know what you’re doing. Opening the incubator or peeling back shell too early can easily cause bleeding or infection.
Once they’re out of their egg, let them dry and fluff up in the incubator - do not rush this stage - they can stay in there for up to forty-eight hours without food or water — the yolk they’ve absorbed before hatching keeps them going. When they’re dry and moving confidently, and no more eggs are hatching (remember opening the incubator causes the membrane to shrink, so we don't do it.. ) then it’s time to move them into the brooder.
Caring for Newly Hatched Chicks
By the time your chicks are dry and fluffy, you’ll probably be bursting to move them — but take your time and have the brooder ready first. A brooder doesn’t have to be fancy. For small hatches, a large plastic tub, rabbit cage, or even a sturdy cardboard box can work perfectly. The key things are warmth, dryness, and safety.
For heat, I always recommend a brooder heat plate (Amazon) over a traditional bulb. Heat plates mimic a mother hen — warm underneath, dark and calm on top — which helps the chicks settle and sleep properly. They also remove the fire risk that comes with hanging lamps. If you already have a lamp, make sure it’s properly guarded and high enough that no chick can touch it. Keep a digital thermometer and hygrometer with probe (Amazon link) in there too, so you can check the floor temperature rather than just the air above.
At first, you’re aiming for about 35°C directly under the heat source, dropping by a degree or two each week as the chicks feather up. You’ll quickly learn to watch their behaviour: huddled tightly together means they’re cold, scattered away means they’re too warm. Calm chicks that nap under the heat plate, with others pottering around, are your best sign that you’ve got it right.
Bedding is the next thing to think about. I’m a big fan of towels, puppy pads, or corrugated cardboard for those early days. Both are absorbent, soft, and easy to change. Avoid smooth newspaper — it’s slippery and can cause leg problems. Once the chicks are a week or so old, you can move them onto chick bedding if you prefer something longer lasting. The key is to keep it clean and dry; damp bedding causes chills faster than anything else.
For food and water, start with Marriages Medicated Chick Crumb (not for ducks) and a small Chick Nipple Drinker (Amazon) rather than a bowl — chicks are clumsy and can easily drown. Change the water often, and for the first few days I like to add a splash of Johnsons Poultry Vitamin Tonic (Amazon link). It gives them a bit of support after the effort of hatching, especially if you’ve had any slow starters. You’ll be amazed at how quickly they perk up after a few days of steady warmth and routine.
Keep an eye out for pasty bottoms (when droppings stick and block the vent). It’s common in warm brooders but easy to fix — a quick clean with warm water and a dab of olive oil prevents recurrence. Chicks are resilient little things when they’re managed gently and given the basics of warmth, dryness, and good feed.
Once they’re about three weeks old and well-feathered, you can start easing off the heat for short spells during the day. They’ll soon start behaving like miniature chickens — scratching, dust bathing, and roosting on anything that looks like a perch.
Aftercare and Hygiene
When your chicks finally move outside, you’ll be amazed at how quickly they turn into proper little hens and cockerels. That first egg from a bird you’ve hatched and raised yourself never stops feeling special. Whether you’re doing this for fun, education, or self-sufficiency, remember that every hatch — good or bad — teaches you something new. Even the tricky ones help you understand how to do better next time.
Don’t be disheartened if not every egg makes it. It happens to everyone, and often there’s nothing you could have done differently. Keep notes, stay curious, and always put welfare first — those are the real signs of a good poultry keeper.
And above all, enjoy it. Few things connect you to nature quite like seeing life begin in your own hands - and if you have any questions, pop a link below.
PS - I forgot to say - make sure you have a plan for the cockerals when hatching out at home….you will probably get at least 2 in every hatch, so you do need a plan of action with what to do with them if you can't keep them.
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